HD power supply under Optical disk.

Hi,
I have Sonnet E4i, a Pci-e card that has 4 internal esata ports.
I know there is the Maxupgrade way to fit more drives under the optical bay, but I'm wondering if I can accomplish putting more drives there using the card I have. I think I can but I'm wondering about the power supply for the drives. I have a 4 disk connector that came with a G5 Jive I bought. Could I use that to connect to the one free set of HD cables under the optical tray and thread my esata cables from the card to my drives?
Thanks much for any info.

If storage is your cup of tea, here's another sweetener:
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/storage/
$200 use to be sweet spot I thought. When the 100MB drive gained popularity, they went from $1K to $300 rather quickly at one point.... for real? a scam? and snapped up like crazy. $395 for a number of drives (100/120/160) for awhile. I 'splurged' on a couple 9 and 18GB, and I just did not like the humming pitch of 10K Cheetah - at all! 10K Raptor saved me from some more 36/74GB SCSI drives. I got "paid" in Raptors, but they were really 1.0 anyway.
My project is to build a nice system, and I've got bookmarks, reviews on cases, coolers, what to know about PSU, all in spreadsheets, "wish lists" and more. Unfortunately and happily, I'll wait for more R&D results.
I lost some hearing on the firing range and then during fire fights, but you needed ear plugs (and wool socks) in glass cage and those old timer systems. If someone said I'd have 8GB RAM and 10TB of storage, I"d think HAL9000 got to them!
A case of Ensure is more my cup of tea today I'm afraid!

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  • Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

    I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
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    Line-Conditioning Circuitry
    A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
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    3) Molex peripheral power connector
    4) Floppy power connector
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    install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
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    as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
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    each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
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    In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
    end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
    Modular Power Supplys:
    The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
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    You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
    http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

    Quote
    In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
    end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
    Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W  xD. Come on.
    Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
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  • Power supply fan dead - help? (400mhz AGP G4)

    Hello!
    Unfortunately, my PowerMac G4, a 400mhz, AGP Sawtooth model, has a dead fan.
    Over the last few weeks, I've noticed that my G4 has been running quite hot. I figured it was due to the hot dorm room that it's being used in. Then, I noticed that when it booted up, it would occasionally make a vibrating, or rattling noise - I figured the fan was wobbling. Since air was comming out of the fan opening at the top, I didn't worry about it.
    Today, I used the "Temperature Monitor" widget to check the temperature of my SMART Hard drive (the G4 itself is not sensed). It was 133 degrees!!! This is the bay on the back-right, just under the CPU fan. I looked at the fan again - not much airflow. I pulled out a flashlight and pointed it in, and the Fan that's inside the power supply unit is dead.
    So, how can I fix it? It's far far too hot, so it's not usable until I can cool it off. The first idea I had was to take a particularly powerful desk fan, and make a paper "tube" that connects both to the G4 and back of the fan - so it'll pull the hot air out. Needless to say, this is not a good log-term plan as it's easy to fall apart and will have leaks, but it works for now. I realize you can buy power supplies, but for ~$100, it's far too much for the old G4.
    Second idea: The fan is inside the "non-user servicable" power supply, but it's also next to the back of the G4 - right inside what appears to be a panel that holds the power supply in. At the very least, I'd like to make sure that the cable is attached and not loose, but I have to open the back. Is that possible or safe? If so, can I replace the fan?
    My third idea was to attach an extra fan to the inside of the G4, on the outside of the power supply - pushing in. Unfortunately, the IDE cable from the DVD drive is in the way, and there's not much room for a fan. Plus, there's no fan power supply. Is it possible to convert an ATA power plug (there are 7!) to a fan-power supply? I'd require a small circuit and a lot of resistors, obviously! If so, what would I need to do to convert it?
    Thanks a bunch,
    -Dan
    15" 1.67 Powerbook G4 (Jan 2005), 400 mhz AGP Sawtooth G4   Mac OS X (10.4.8)   4G Clickwheel and 5G Vid iPods, 2G iPod shuffle

    Thanks!
    Interesting, this "Piggy back power adapter" will allow me to plug the fan into one of the ATA/IDE cables? Or do you mean the extra port on the power supply? (it has one plug for the outlet>G4, then another to support something like a monitor or similar) The G4 has a DVD burner, but no ZIP drive, so this is quite do-able if it uses the ATA power.
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    Another question: what tools and supplies will I need? I may need to remove the plastic cover on the back of the G4 - the one that is outside the power supply - as there's a gap between the gray plastic and metal chassis that lets air from outside the machine come in. The screws for this cover use a funky, hexagonal screwdriver. If I need to take this cover off, what kind of screwdriver will I need? Also, should the fan not include screws/etc, what's the best method to attach it? Glue?
    Secondly, to cut a hole in the G4, will I need some variety of drill? I don't have one, so i'll have to borrow one... Since there's nothing in the ZIP slot, I can run a cable out through here (assuming it's long enough), and make a new bezel to keep the airflow inside intact.
    Ah! One other (somewhat related) question: my USB 2 card includes a power adapter, for use when several un-powered devices (flash drives) are attached. It works just fine with a flash drive and a small media reader, but it's slow to sense the drives - I think it's low on power. Unfortunately, this power plug uses the same variety of plug as the floppy disk drives found on many win-boxes - of which the G4 possesses none. Is there an adapter/cable for this purpose?
    Thanks, this is a HUGE help, I appreciate it.
    -Dan

  • Power Supply blows a fuse, Ext Soundcard power outages, Time Machine.

    Power Supply blows a fuse, Ext Soundcard momentary power outages. Time Machine won't backup.
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    Ok some updates I see, 6 in total including a firmware and security upgrades, also two Native Instruments Updates, Reaktor and Kontakt. I will be testing, this. Before the Updates I managed to peak the CPU load in Logic 9 and was only using 14 tracks, will need to bounce the Synth Plugs and drum tracks and run all the source samples from the Local internal drive a Hitachi 5400rpm drive hmmm :/ will experiment, anyway my Iomega FW drive froze up the Iomega Mac Companion is the correct name for it 2TB 7800rpm but it met it's match or was is the processor? Still sussing it all out. Firewire leads upgrade in effect. testing.. bleep. .

  • 1st gen. iMac G5 power supply failure

    Hi, all!
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    This will be my first time opening an iMac. I believe that I can open the machines and remove-replace the hard drives without voiding any warranties, correct?
    Thanks so much in advance for your help and advice!
    Adam

    I am on the phone right now with a product specialist about my iMac G5 power supply issues. Kind of ***** because he has, in so many words, said that the Genius is the Alpha and Omega and can extend the 3 year coverage. For me that is great except that the Apple store is over an hour away. I don't understand why the dude on the phone can't pull the switch and make it happen as well.
    Factor in:
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    Loading it in the car
    Driving an hour
    Carrying it into the Mall (apple store)
    Waiting for my Genius appointment
    More than likely getting it fixed for free (from the sounds of things)
    Driving back after it is fixed
    Doing everything listed in reverse.
    Would it just be easier to pay the $108 for a new power supply, wait a few days, undo some screws, and BAM! it works again?
    Update. Off the phone now. The product specialist flexed his muscles, back handed the Genius to gain authority, and basically stated that they WILL DEFINITELY repair either the power supply or the logic board or both if needed. I have already had them replace the logic board once. BUT, I still have to load it up and take it to the Apple Store. Boo.

  • Lacie 200 GB FW400 Power Supply

    I was doing some negative scanning the other day using my Nikon Super Coolscan 9000 and accidentally turned on my one of my Lacie drives at the time, which the Nikon scanner doesn't like. Every time it happens, the scanner stops in its tracks.
    Anyways, this time, I noticed that the Lacie drive didn't power up all the way and just kind of got stuck and stuttered on the power up. I shut it down using the blue button on the front and kept on scanning, figuring a reboot when I was done would fix all, but it didn't.
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  • Power supply, how many Watts?

    Hello!
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    2 Harddisks
    Graphics card - MSI Gforce4 MX440SE-T
    Sound card - EMU 1212m
    In performance Slow mode - I have used the diagnostic tool SiSoft Sandra and getting very different results when running CPU, memory and cache benchmarks. Sometimes the results are half of what the supplied reference curves indicates. But other times everthing is correct. All the bus speeds are OK.
    Can this be explained by not enough Watts. If so how much power should a system like mine have?
    KA

    Here's a post I wrote in May in another forum, when I discovered the importance of a good PSU
    Your system crashes? Did you really...
    ...check all components??
    In 90% of cases, you will forget the most important component, the Power Supply Unit (PSU). Before spending money in changing RAM, MB, graphic card, read this:
    I Wanted to share my experience in my last crash issues.
    I have a fast P4 2.8G 512Mb, GT4600, 2HD, 2 optic drives...
    Never had issues, till I begun adding hardware:
    LAN, Surround Sound, wireless keyboard/mouse, USB hubs, IEEE devices...
    Random varried hang-ups, reboots, crashes, never the same circumstances
    I noticed a CPU temperature increase. Suspecting an overheating, I tried running my PC with the case open. My problems became very rare.
    Then, I upgraded to a Radeon 9600 Pro: crashes, reboots, overheating of CPU. I invested in a ThermalTake Subzero 4G cooler with independent power supply. My problems disappeared or rather became sparse. I again thought it's the overheating.
    Last week, my Subzero 4G advanced cooler died, and the CPU burned up to 75¡ã before crashing. I returned my subzero and went with a Zalman 7000Al-Cu cooler.
    System experienced seldom reboots, crashes and was no longer possible to work on it. Sometimes, it will reboot during the boot process, before even windows begins to load.
    This time, I finally thought at my Power Supply Unit, a generic 300 Watt.
    Browsed a bit on google, and found that my 300 watt would never be able to supply my too heavy equipped system.
    The Power Supply Unit (PSU), is maybe one of the most important components in a PC. But it's also one of the less known. we often buy or assemble a PC. The case includes often cheap generic 300-350 Watt PSU. All works, till the day you add a HD, buy a new power hungry graphic adapter, increase RAM... then crashes, reboots, overheating appear.
    They are related to the PSU delivering high load voltages to the units and low voltage to other parts, since it is over loaded. Often it ends with CPU overheating, PCI/AGP cards burned. In my case, I now think it was overvoltage to burn my PCI card controlled Subzero Cooler.
    After long hours of browsing the forums for PSU reviews, I changed to an Antec Truepower 550 watt PSU, and no more reboots, crashes or over heating.
    Also, this solved my LAN router (supporting 1024 sessions) being reset under emule. Probabily too much power requested by the many open connections that my PSU couldn't deliver.
    An advice, if you experience crashes during games, burning CDs, reading CDroms, overcloaking or especially sudden reboots, check your configuration. If you have something like a P4, a new power graphic card, plenty of HD, then look at your PSU. If it is some generic 300-350 Watt, before changing RAM, motherboard, graphic card to solve problems, spend soome 150$ in an Antec or Enermax 480-550 watt PSU, and most of your headaches will be solved.
    Take a review of PSUs here
    http://www.anandtech.com/showdoc.html?i=1841&p=1
    they don't include the TruePower 550, but the TrueControl 550. They are just same, but the TrueControl have a front panel to manually adjust voltages, only for hardcore overclockers.
    If you wonder, why at the begining my problems were solved just by running the system with case opened, then you must know that all PSU have their output power decrease as temperature increases. All sold PSU in the public market have their max output tested at 25C. At 70C, they are all rated for 0 Watt output. You understand the importance of a well supplied, but also well cooled system. The best in the market is Antec/Enermax. Take care with Q-Tec low price PSU, many bad reports on MSI motherboards forums
    Q-Tec warning!!!!

  • How to Replace Power Supply

    I'm stuck with what I thought was going to be an easy job - compared to a G5 tower or an iMac.
    I need to replace the power supply in my Mac Pro (2008) but I'm stuck at getting the small cover off. I've removed the metal plate that was under the optical drives (POV when looking through the side). But it seems there's a small cover for the power supply that's similar to the big processor cover for the liquid cooled G5 towers. I can't figure out how to remove that.
    Does anyone have a link to a manual or take-apart guide for the Mac Pro?
    Thanks!

    Before you begin, open the computer, lay it on its side with the access side facing up, and remove
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    • Hard drives and hard drive carriers in drive bays 3 and 4
    • Optical drive carrier and optical drives
    • Any PCI Express cards that block access to the power supply mounting screws
    1. Using a short-handled, magnetized 2.5 mm hex screwdriver, remove the four power supply
    mounting screws from the bottom of the media shelf.
    2. Depress the upper right corner of the power supply and slide the power supply toward the
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    3. Lift the power supply a short distance and rest it on the edge of the enclosure.
    4. Starting with the top connector and working down, disconnect the four connectors on the
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    5. Remove the power supply from the enclosure.
    Replacing the Power Supply:
    1. Rest the power supply on the edge of the enclosure so that its cable can reach the media
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    supply cable connectors. Therefore, the next step shows how to temporarily remove the power harness connectors from the divider for a better line of sight.
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    3. Placing a hand on either side of the media shelf divider, thread the J1 connector on the power supply cable through the top connector opening in the media shelf divider and connect it to the PS1 connector on the power harness. Repeat for the other three power supply cable connectors.
    4. Important: The first three connectors on the power supply cable are marked J1, J2, and J3; the fourth connector is not marked. The four connectors on the power harness cable are marked PS1, PS2, PS3, and PS4. You must connect J1 to PS1, J2 to PS2, etc.
    5. Starting at the bottom connector and working up, depress the locking latches on each power harness connector and reinsert it into its opening in the media shelf divider. Important: Test that all power supply cable connectors and power harness connectors are fully seated by tugging on the cables on both sides of each of the four paired connectors.
    6. Fold the power supply cable on the bottom of the power supply bay.
    7.Lift the power supply and holding the power supply at an angle, llower it into the enclosure until its
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    8. Slide the power supply toward the back of the computer as far as possible.
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  • G5 iMac Will Not Turn On - Power Supply Diagnosis?

    My A1145 20" iSight PPC G5 iMac will not turn on - it doesn't respond to the power button. It had been shut down for a few days, I turned on the power and it booted up as normal, the desktop appeared and I was about to open the web browser when it suddenly went dead; the screen immediately turned off with no warning or noise. There is no fan or disk noise coming from it when the power lead is plugged in, just a very, very faint electronic hum from inside.
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    Whilst I know a repair might not be cost-effective on such an old machine, I have 220GB of photographs, documents and music on it - none of which is backed-up - so I am very keen to get it working and backed-up as soon as possible.
    Could anyone suggest how to diagnose the problem?

    Hi there:
    My experience with Macintosh computers has not included the G5 iMac even though I almost got one to replace a failed-under-AppleCare iMac G4 17" 1.25GHz after three/four major failures and no local support.
    ...So, I think you may be able to pull the hard disk drive out of that computer and see if an external enclosure could allow you access those files IF the drive spins up at all. Sometimes odd things happen, and the G5 iMac had some history of capacitor and other failures that could be a problem. I see there are a few free information guides here that may be helpful: http://www.ifixit.com/Device/iMac_G5
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    There are troubleshooting items of interest in here http://www.apple.com/support/imac/g5/ ie: what to do when your computer won't turn on...
    Sorry to not be of direct help in this matter.
    Good luck & happy computing!

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